My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Friday, August 31, 2012

Wise words from a well travelled friend

Pavones, Costa Rica
Niall and I hired a car and drove to Pavones, Costa Rica to ride the second longest left in the world. We timed it on the back of a large swell coming through for the weekend hoping that we would avoid the crowds but still get to surf this amazing point break at its best.

It was here that the homesickness hit. It pervaded every thought, feeling, moment and took the happiness and enjoyment out of everything. The swell was pumping, my travel buddy, Niall was having the surf sessions of his life and I just wanted to go home.

I felt so lost, so far away from everyone and everything I loved. I emailed a good and well travelled friend. Here is what he wrote back. 

Travelling is not easy.
Everything is heavy.
The food, the little risk, the bad beds, the roosters, the rats, the annoying people....
I understand you when you say that you are tired.

Take it easy...slow down...eat well and try to sleep well.
So you will soon have the batteries full again and you can continue to travel.

but remember...all the heavy things are actually good for your spirit and your knowledge.
I am sure you are learning a lot during these days...
A lessons that only travelling can give you.


Ancoro Imparo.

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