Wise words from a well travelled friend

Pavones, Costa Rica

Niall and I hired a car and drove to Pavones, Costa Rica to ride the second longest left in the world. We timed it on the back of a large swell coming through for the weekend hoping that we would avoid the crowds but still get to surf this amazing point break at its best.

It was here that the homesickness hit. It pervaded every thought, feeling, moment and took the happiness and enjoyment out of everything. The swell was pumping, my travel buddy, Niall was having the surf sessions of his life and I just wanted to go home.

I felt so lost, so far away from everyone and everything I loved. I emailed a good and well travelled friend. Here is what he wrote back. 

Travelling is not easy.
Everything is heavy.
The food, the little risk, the bad beds, the roosters, the rats, the annoying people....
I understand you when you say that you are tired.

Take it easy...slow down...eat well and try to sleep well.
So you will soon have the batteries full again and you can continue to travel.

but remember...all the heavy things are actually good for your spirit and your knowledge.
I am sure you are learning a lot during these days...
A lessons that only travelling can give you.

Ancoro Imparo.

Surfing with las chicas at Santa Teresa

Fun peaks at Playa Santa Teresas

After five weeks of intense travel driving a motorbike through Java and staying at a shag shack in La Libertad, I was excited to catch up with my friend Niall in San Jose. We planned to head straight to the coast, find a cute little apartment and surf fun waves for two weeks. 

Santa Teresa seemed like the best place to do this with a plethora of yoga schools, restaurants and a mixture of reef and beach breaks within easy reach. It is a tiny jungle village on the Nicoya Peninsula, a five hour bus and ferry ride from San Jose. As long as I have good coffee nearby, fresh fruit and vegetables, things to explore, a running route of some description and good waves to surf, I am a very happy camper.

We totally scored with the accommodation staying at Hotel Meli Melo paying $30 a night for a twin room, shared kitchen, wifi and living area. The waves were crazy fun. We were so lucky to time our arrival with a building swell. Playa Santa Teresa is a series of super fun peaks that easily holds a crowd. Its a great wave on a smallish swell maxing out at around 5 foot. On the other side of the peninsula are several reef breaks that fire when the swell gets bigger.

Aside from the waves, the town was full of chicks that ripped. Every session there was at least 3 – 4 girls in the water, more then holding their own. I got to meet and chat to a couple and was so inspired by their stories...................Evie Johnstone is a Jaco based surfer trying to break into the professional circuit, Josie Green had been surfing for four years and blogs about surf life and surfing chicks in Santa Teresa, Veronica Quiros designs surf bikinis (Tica surf) and teaches Spanish and Margerit is a local artist and owner of Zwart Cafe / Art (a perfect local whilst on vacation). These were just the girls I chatted to in the line up.

I was also stoked to discover a wicked brand of surf bikini – Calavera. Every girl that surfs has a ridiculous obsession with bikinis and finding the perfect pair that will stay on when wiping out is pretty important. I don't know how many times I have paddled out the back, sat up on my board and realised my bikinis are undone and my nipples are pointing to the line up. I spotted Evie wearing a pair whilst surfing and paddled over to her to ask her who made them. Luckily for me, she is a Calavera sponsored rider and had a few pairs for sale. They are the only bikini I have ever surfed in that truly stays on in all conditions and their pretty damn sexy as well!