I knew heading into the water that this was a surf that would push my buttons. It was probably only 3 - 4 foot with some bigger sets pushing through but enough to get my adrenalin pumping. It was a good day to practise my duck diving - push board down, throw leg up in the air, hold and pray. I haven't quite worked out how to bring the board back up to my chest so that I can pop up nicely on the other side.
I've only recently realised that I do a breast stroke kick to push through the bigger waves - my friend Simone let me know one day when we were surfing an out of control Scarborough. It seems to work but it doesn't let me get deep enough under the wave to clear the foam and to stop getting dragged back. It also means that I lose ground so I am in a worse position for the next wave in the set (which is often bigger, harder and faster).
So perfecting my duck diving technique will be one of my new years resolutions for 2012. To do this I'm going to keep watching you tubes showing me how, reread Taj Burrows book of hot surfing, page 30 (I really don't think I am the target market for this book) and keep putting myself in the impact zone so I can practise the damn thing.
My other resolutions for 2012 are:
1. Quit my job.
2. Take 6 - 12 months off my career to travel, study, write and most importantly surf.
3. Get barrelled (or at least be surfing well in waves that will eventually allow me to get barrelled).
4. Practise more yoga, surf as much as I can and eat as raw as possible.
5. Be a kinder, gentle, more forgiving person and a better friend.
6. Find the right balance for a good life.
Hello, I just randomly found your blog. I think we have a mutual friend - Kristy. I enjoyed reading about your progress and places you've surfed. I've been surfing for about 4 years and totally get the frustrations and joys you mention of learning to surf as an adult and a woman.
ReplyDeleteCheck out my blog: www.crystalvoyager.blogspot.com :)
Hannah.