My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Monday, December 26, 2011

Boxing Day Surf

The best five things about todays surf -

1. That fin was not a shark, it was a dolphin.
2. I was not the oldest in the water.
3. I duck dived successfully (but not properly) under some decent sized waves and held my position.
4.  I was surfing a right hander.
5. I took one half decent wave and called it.


Clearly it wasn't the best surf ever but I was out there, it was Boxing Day and I was in Margaret River. And that fin was not a shark fin. Thankfully. The movement of the water and the flicker of grey really spooked me for a second.


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