My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

25 things about me

This post is not about surfing. I wrote this list two years ago when a friend tagged me in their list on facebook. I never published it.................I finished the remaining two last night and quite liked it..........I felt it was wasted sitting as a draft but I don't think I want to share it somewhere as public as FB. My unread blog seems much better!

Most things haven't changed since 2009 however I am pleased to report I have broken my addiction to crappy American crime shows (11)!

25 things about me.
1. I wish I could speak another language
2. I love lying in my bed at night with the window open and the wind blowing, just listening
3. Learning to surf is one of the hardest (but the best) things I've ever done
4. I wish I played the guitar more then I do
5. I wish I wasn't so obsessed with keeping fit and eating well and could just let go
6. I could easily run a marathon or complete an ironman but the thought of spending a few days in silence really scares me
7. I hate that all the people I love are spread through out the world
8. I am appalled by government (and the general populations) inaction in relation to the environment
9. I can't believe I studied health and physical education as an undergraduate
10. There is nothing better then falling in love with the characters in an amazing book (and there is nothing better then falling in love)
11. I hate that I get sucked into crappy American crime shows in the evening
12. I dream of living in the bush by the sea living off the land
13. Sometimes I feel that I that I am a complete fake and am bullshitting my way through life
14. The one thing I love most in the world is laughing, big, loud, belly laughs that hurt so much
15. Wine, cheese and chocolate are the best
16. I love meeting people who I connect with...........easily and simply
17. I am so cynical about marriage but I really wish I wasn't
18. Animal cruelty is the one thing that really makes me feel helpless
19. I am trying so hard to minimise my impact on the world but I am afraid that it is not enough
20. I wish I could take my feet out of my mouth
21. I pretend to be so tough
22. I find live music and the people that create it so inspiring
23. The sea soothes my soul - el mar, mi alma
24. I want to write and publish the story of my grandparents time in Papua New Guinea in the 50s
25. I hope that I don't see the extinction of the last remaining large mammals in my lifetime

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