My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Friday, February 26, 2010

The surf posse

You have to have a surf posse. It makes surfing so much more fun especially when you have a break all to yourselves.

When I moved to Melbourne in 2006, I started surfing with Mickey, Grant, Ivan and Matt on a regularly basis. We were all at a similar level, some of us better then others, some with more surfing nous then others. We were all pretty keen to get better, surf more and where willing to get up early and make the 90 minute drive out to Philip Island or the West Coast.

I spent my formative surfing years with these guys. I mastered duck diving, brought my first short(ish) board and spent many Sunday mornings with Ivan throwing rocks at Mickey and GPs windows dragging their sorry arses out of warm beds away from even warmer girls. We even managed a few surf trips down the south coast of NSW and the islands of Indonesia.

Now in West Oz surfing predominantly by myself, I really miss the reliability of a regular surf crew. I am sure that those out surfing appreciate that I no longer arrive at a break in a posse of five but there is something comforting about exploring a new break with a familiar crew.

Mickey, GP, Ivan and Matt are all on their own surfing journeys. I'm counting on the fact that one day they'll get over to the West Coast ready for an obligatory 'down south' road trip.

No comments:

Post a Comment