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| An empty line up, Kuta Reef, Bali |
I said good bye to Bali on a swell of 6
– 8 foot sharing Kuta Reef with 70 of my nearest and dearest.
Sometimes you can jag that wave with 4 or 5 others in the water but
with a big swell running and school holidays there was no chance of
that. It was horror and I really felt the three weeks I had spent out
of the water riding Red (my motorbike) around Java.
Needless to say the Australian men
surfing those last few days were not the countryman I am proud of. It
only takes one or two overly aggressive men (or women for that
matter) to ruin a surf. People were dropping in, snaking and yelling
at each other, generally committing every single surf sin possible.
I love surfing Kuta Reef. It is a
really fun wave that can handle some size, even barrelling at the end section. I have surfed it with good
friends and a handful of other surfers. The downside it is the
closest decent wave to Kuta/Legian area so when the swell is on it,
so are a million others.
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