My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Quiet possibly the coolest thing I'll ever own.


I brought a motorbike. My girlfriend Ang and I have plans to ride from West Timor back to Bali stopping at surf breaks and checking out the different islands to the east of Bali.

Foreigners in Bali can't own anything outright so I've had to go though a 'friend' who essentially owns the bike. I, however, have the blue book.

Its a 125cc, blue and white, 4 gear manual, Honda Supra X. I've called him Red.

I also picked up an Indonesian motorbike license. This was pretty simple to do although I am not sure it was entirely legal. I went with my 'friend' to a local police station and sat some tests. Having a local license will mean less hassle at ferry crossing. Its also pretty cool.
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