My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

My Quiver

Introducing Zak......welcomed to the family at 2.34pm this afternoon, 6'3 / 183/4, 21/2.......mum and board are doing fine.

I bought him from Yahoo surfboards in Dunsborough (awesome guys, great service and a real, authentic surf shop!). He was shaped locally for Renee, whoever she is. Not a ding on him.

Zak joins the Grubb (6.3 / 19 / 2 1/4), Len (6'3 / 19 / 2 7/8 ), Dicko (who is permanently retired due to ongoing injuries), the Mini Mal (7'2) and the blue spacca board (my very first). He will be accompanying me on my travels to Indonesia and Central America later this year. Yew!
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