My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Why I Surf.....


I've always wanted to surf. I remember when I was 15 being in awe of the guys running down the steps, board in hand at the Cove. I even signed up to surf lessons with Mr Walker at school down at Leighton and conquered standing in the foam.

I've been in and out of the water for as long as I can remember at surf club and in swimming pools. My mum sent me off to swimming lessons every summer, so I'm a good swimmer and pretty competant at reading the surf. Rowing surf boats has given me the best education in how waves work, where they pick up, when to dig in and when to sit back and enjoy the ride.

I finally committed to surfing when I moved to Melbourne in 2006 and actually brought myself a board. A 7'2 minimal, custom designed by Dicko from Torquay! I met some crew through RMIT Outdoor club who were at the same level as I was and away we went. Weekends were spent at Philip Island at YCW with my crew Ivan, GP, Mickey and any others who came along for the ride. I was 28.

Its been a pretty hard journey, one step forward, two steps back. Everytime I feel like I'm getting somewhere, I go out in a break that is way above my ability and lose my cool or I suck on a wave I know really well and get in everyones way. Its just surfing....the changing environment means that everyday is different. I wish I had started younger but I don't think I had the confidence to mix it with the boys out the back.

I always figure that every surf will teach me something. Whether its in perfect 3 - 4 foot waves in at a nice, cruisey break or 1 foot mash flattened by the Fremantle Dr! Its also a great sport to teach patience (which I really struggle with!). I've spent so much time bobbing around on my board, waiting for the perfect Bec size wave to come in and pick me up.

I'm having a great time checking out unfamiliar breaks in Western Australia where I am currently living. Last weekend, Nathe and I went to Muttonbird bay in Albany. I thought I knew most of the incredible places in this state but this spot took my breathe away. There was something special about beach breaks as far as the eye could see, a protected cove for young families and a nice-ish wave for Lplate long boarders.

Why I surf, I'm not sure.....catching a wave just feels so good.
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  1. UnknownOctober 9, 2010 at 5:22 AM

    Hey Bek! Just read your blogs, a good read keep it up :-) Hope you and Nath doing great over there. Look fw to catching up again one day soon. Rich

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