My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Thursday, March 22, 2012

Trigg Point



Trigg Point is the most crowded wave I surf on a regular basis. To be honest, I've only just started surfing the point.........not because I don't think I can't make it but because its full of little rippers who have that place wired, WIIIIRRRED.....there is little room for a mid thirties women who hasn't quite nailed her right hand takes offs...........

But today.........something worked. I finished training at 8.30am and thought I'd check out the point on the way home. There were 10 people on it........which for a Saturday morning with swell was something very unusual......I waxed up, zipped up the wettie and headed out. I sat right on the Point.

And I took it and I made it.......the bomb wave of the biggest set of the day. It was the third wave and the first two cleaned everyone out. I was there in the spot and I pulled it off.

I swear people where cheering as I was heading down the line. All. The. Way. To. The. Beach.......

It was the only wave I took all day but I've been smiling all week. All goddamn week.
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