My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Flat spells...............

Its been 10 whole days with minimal movement in the water and there is nothing on the horizon. Flat spells are a reality of surf especially in Perth over summer. Its a great time to catch up on errands and pick up on some new hobbies. Like kitesurfing!

I've been thinking about giving it a go for awhile. Everyone else is doing it and Perth is the perfect spot for it. Every afternoon without fail, the Fremantle Dr arrives, turning all waves to mash and driving everyone off the beach. You can almost set your watch by it. 100s of ex surfers now set up their new fangled kiting gear and head west off Cott, Leighton and anywhere else.

I think I'll just stick to surfing, considering I'm so average anyway, I don't want to spread myself to thin!
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