The sea, my soul......................a very cool name for a new Chilean surfing movie. El mar, mi alma. I like it. I read a beautiful article by Australian surfer, Belinda Baggs in the Australian Longboarding magazine. Belinda is about to give birth to her first child. Some of what she wrote really resonated.
'The winds that bring us someone we love are the same that bring us something we learn to love. These are the same winds creating swell that travels thousands of miles to our shores. These shores give us a sense of belonging, a strength, a heart and a quiet calmness for existing in place and time. They lead us to wander in amazement, see and appreciate all the things beautiful that the oceans and the earth encompass...................to be led by the wind and the sea, to be led by the wind and the sea.'
I've struggled with surfing for the last four years. Its only over the last few months that I feel like I've had a major break through. I'm heading down the line - both lefts and rights - and I'm starting to turn, to look down the wave, my stance has improved, my rhythm is better, my footwork is getting there. I almost feel like a real surfer - even though I've created my own breast stroke style duck dive!
Getting out into the water over the past four years has been tough. To consistantly turn up to a break and know that you are the worst in the water, is a huge hurdle to overcome. To do that and be a woman. But something about this sport gets me right in the heart. Despite the fact that I will never be any good, I love it.
My friend talks about the serenity he feels when he is the water. Others talk about the sensation of catching a good wave. I know many who will leave the embrace of a beautiful, warm women (or man) to drive 60 minutes, put on a 4/3 wetsuit and just get wet. I just feel at peace, in the moment............like nothing else matters more then bobbing around on a board waiting for a wave.
